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From Carl Paukstis
I also received my Rifle windshield system last night. Installing that
took over two hours. Woulda been 30 minutes if I hadn't dropped on of
those (&^!@ nuts-with-plastic-housing that the windshield screws
attach to, and removed 2/3 of the fairing looking for it (without success).
For someone who was asking about Rifle specs/QC - the uppermost left
(clutch side) screw hole on the black plastic base where it attaches
in place of the original windshield should be located 1/8" to 3/16"
(sorry; my distance-estimation brain works in SAE) in an up-and-outboard
direction from where it was actually provided. All other screw holes,
etc. appear to fit perfectly. I simply enlarged/elongated that hole
with a Dremel tool; some day maybe I'll epoxy up the excess hole.
The new shield is too tall. Sigh. I tried to be smart, saying to myself
(and the salesman) "I think I want 1" over stock, but I'm
not real sure, so I'll buy 3" over stock because I can have it
cut down cheaply." So now I have to take the trouble of having
it cut down 2" cheaply. There's a plastics shop downtown which
did this for my Harley windshield for $10, and it came out perfect.
From Dan Pritts
Also note re: windshields:
- Lockhart; bolt-on, about 2" taller (maybe several heights?),
no lip, about $70; area painted black on stock shield is clear on
this, which doesn't look great, consider painting yours if you buy.
- Rifle; "system" with air flow through shield to reduce
noise and pressure differential, about $180-$200, supposedly works
great.
- Someone else maybe that makes one like lockhart, but painted already?
From: Spencer Farrow
Subject: Re: Shortening Stock Windshield
Hi Erik -
At 12:59 PM 4/9/96 -0700, you wrote:
>With the near imminent return of my big grey toy I am wondering
of anyone
>knows of an easy and clean way of getting rid of that top edge of
the
>windshield that points straight up and causes the wind to get confused
into
>my face.
Here's how I make a "summer windshield" out of a stocker:
- Place masking tape on the shield at about where you want it cut.
- Remove the shield from the bike, being careful not to drop the little
plastic nuts into the fairing. (If they come out easily, squirt a
little RTV sealer on them before you put them back. Trust me, this
will make your life *much* easier the next time you remove the windscreen.)
- Apply more masking tape around the area of the proposed cut, to
produce about 4"-6" wide swath of tape, all the way across
the shield.
- Affix the shield to a long workbench or piece of wood (using screws
through the mounting holes)...... this does not have to withstand
nuclear attack, just keep the shield in place.
- Get a long piece of string and a thumbtack; tie one end of the string
to the tack, and place the tack in the workbench, around 4' from the
desired cut-line. Use the string as a compass, and draw the resulting
curve onto the masking tape. Experiment with the distance, until you
produce a curve that is aesthetically pleasing. (If you're an artsy
type, just draw it....... But I'm not; I use the string.)
- Using a saber-saw and a fine blade, make the cut, then polish the
cut edge. (Note: Here is where I had somebody else do the work; a
local plastic goods store, called TAP Plastics, did the cutting and
polishing, and charged me the princely sum of $5.00.)
- Reattach the screen, etc, and happy motoring!
(Thanks to fellow COGger and all around fun guy Mike Parks for coming
up with the above methodology. Mike and his bike can be found at http://www.webflight.org)
Take the bags and "antlers" off, install the bag-mount cover
trim pieces, and your bike will have that great "Ninja on Steroids
(TM)" look! ;^)
Happy motoring - Cheers - Spencer
Spencer Farrow
'86 Concours - The Grey Ghost
COG # 2014
AMA # 606675
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