(There are links to pictures of the various installs in each section -- ed.)

From Carl Paukstis

OK, on the advice of several people (and prompting from my local bud Scott), I decided to go with a VistaCruise lock. This is the cheap between-rubber-grip-and-switch-housing sort which is normally secured to the throttle cable where it leaves the switch housing on older type bikes, and I'll have to modify it and screw it to the housing itself as recommended by Jan Penner among others. I feel it will be less obtrusive (and less expensive!) than the clamp-over-the-rubber-grip-and-mount-to- the-mirror-hole kind.

So, upon buying said item ($16.50) and examining the situation, I have two problems:

1. The Connie's throttle grip (the plastic part under the rubber grip, that rotates on the handlebar itself) has a sort of a "flange" at the switch housing end (and the other end also, actually), too close to allow the VistaCruise to fit between the flange and the switch/cable housing. It's actually sort of a row of tabs; what you'd get if you had a 1/4"-high flange all the way around the grip, and then filed 1/4" wide slots in it parallel to the length of the grip every 1/2". I figure this will have to be removed - it apparently serves no purpose except as an anchor for the rubber grip.
2. I can't figure out how to get the bar-end weight off. It appears to be one piece at the outside end. I got the bright idea that it might be screwed-on from the INSIDE. So I took the inside-end plastic cover off and shined a light up in there, but no joy - there's not a screw head or anything which looks like a removable fastener to be seen. Hmmm.

#1 I think I have a handle on. Or a Dremel tool, actually.
#2 I could probably solve by brute force, but surely someone among this knowledgeable group has the elegant and simple answer for me?

Later...

You folks are really helpful, y'know? Thanks.
There is indeed a plastic end-cap on my '93 bar-end; it's just a very good fit so it looks like one-piece. It is indeed a 6mm socket-head screw underneath that allows the bar-end to be removed.

I installed the VistaCruise last night. The only necessary modifications are:

1. Remove the "flange" (row of tangs) around the housing-end of the twist grip using a cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool; takes 30 seconds.
2. Smooth and reduce diameter of twistgrip ever so slightly; maybe that was just a second pass at getting the flange/tangs completely removed.
3. Select a small sheet metal screw; drill hole in tang at bottom of VistaCruise large enough to accommodate this screw's shaft and threads completely with a bit of "slop"; enough to allow the installed unit to "float" up/down back/forth slightly. This seems to be important to prevent binding and promote positive throttle snap-off when the lock is released.
4. Drill a smaller, screw-shaft-only size hole into the switch housing at a location corresponding to the hole in the VistaCruise. Allow the screw's threads to cut their own threads in the housing for tight fit. Do not tighten aggressively; allow the unit to "float".
5. Remove large rubber flange from inner end of stock rubber throttle grip with a razor-knife. Otherwise there's not clearance for the VistaCruise.

This whole process took about an hour. Thanks to Scott Larson and many others for assistance and advice.

From Rick Hall

I also used a Vista-Cruise, not sure of the model number, but it really makes no difference as the 'tangs' get cut off anyway. Others use a different mounting arrangement, see the photo below.

I used a small roll pin (1/8") to retain the throttle lock, parallel to the handlebar, at approx. 1:00 as looking from the bar end. I made sure the hole in the throttle lock was large enough to allow float. Drill them both at the same time, then ream the throttle lock hole larger. I think I used a 5/32" bit. The roll pin is barely visible when you pry the grip back. A drop of Loctite (seal and bearing) on the throttle body side, and you're done.... almost.

Add a washer or two between the bar end weight, and the bar end, and you're ready to ride. You can trim the grip with a sharp knife too, I've seen it both ways. Advantage to the former comes when you replace the grips, no trimming needed.

I mounted the lock with the lever to the 'top' side (approx. 11:00). I can still get to the switches, any panic jabs to them with the lock engaged almost always release the lock too. Looks pretty stock, no visible mounting hardware, 70k miles of use.

20k jpg of a typical Vista Cruise installation. This application uses a small screw to engage the unaltered tangs of the lock.

From Tom Adams III

To All,

At the risk of repeating something............a nifty throttle lock (why anyone would want to "lock" their throttle is beyond me) alternative is to truck on down to your local Caterpillar dealer and get the following part: 'O' ring part no. 8M4991.

If your not familiar with this thingy, it goes like this.........roll the 'O' ring up onto the bar-end weight like a, a, ahem, you know, like a you-know-what (HEY! Quit laughing! And don't get ahead of me here). The 'O' ring should stop just before the groove between the bar-end weight and the grip. When you get to your assigned cruising altitude and speed, you simply roll the 'O' ring inward until it rest between the bar-end weight and the grip. There, it provides enough friction (now there you go again! Stop it!) to hold the throttle in position. I know it sounds silly, but it works and the 'O' ring is cheap.

Guy Young follows up with:

Price of the "O"-ring is $2.30. It's the only "lock" I've ever used on any of the bikes I've owned. It ain't perfect, but it's cheap and "installs" easily. No drilling required.

Guy Young provides this picture (29k), includes detailed operating instructions.

From Rich Reed

Greetings:

Lawrence Dee's description of mounting an N.E.P CC-2 throttle lock is about spot-on. Some hints: there are three basic different styles of switch blocks for the Concours, depending on year. The CC-2 will fit, correctly. It is designed so the throttle cable of a Japanese UJM prevents it from slipping. This will not work on the Concours, so you have to come up with another way of holding it.

One method of retaining it is by drilling the hole and using a small self-tapping screw. This works really well, and is not hard. If you look at the end of the right bar, the ideal spot is in the lower left. Remove the three screws and split the switch block to look for yourself where the safe spot to drill is. It is easier with the rubber grip removed, which is likely anyway as a grip mounted without the lock will probably interfere.

I have also seen CC-2's retained by gluing (epoxy) a flat piece of plastic to the bottom of the switch block.

Either way is safe and allows the removal of the lock.

Mark Cipriano offers this picture of a N.E.P. install (26k)