STAR SPRING REPLACEMENT (8/30/2000)

NOTE: The original star spring for the '86 thru '93 models is no longer
available from Kawasaki. But don't despair. You don't have to look any
further than the parts fiche for the later model (1994-A9) Connie, for it
shows tandem springs AND a different nut. Kawasaki hasn't formally said
that these parts are a direct substitute for the old ones, but I have
checked the fiche(s) and the only parts I could see that change in the '94
& up clutch assembly are the spring(s) and the nut. The nut change is
required to allow for the added thickness of the tandem springs.  I've been
told there are large quantities of each in the parts distribution network.

1.  So you'll have the necessary stuff on hand before you tear things down,
purchase the R.H. engine cover gasket approx. $10.00, star springs ($5.00
ea) and a NEW clutch hub nut ($10.00). Prices are approx. It probably
wouldn't hurt to have some gasket sealer (Kawasaki Bond, Yamabond, RTV,
etc.), a spray cleaning solvent like BrakLeen, and Lock-Tite thread sealer
on hand. You'll have to deal with any unexpected damage (if any) once
things are apart.

The part numbers are:

39130-1071      Star Spring     Two (2) required
92015-1929      Nut             MUST be used with the above springs
11009-1860      RH engine cover gasket

2.  Pull the belly pan, R.H. fairing lower, and the lower R.H. internal
ducting bracket.

3.  Drain the oil with the bike on the centerstand, then put it on the
sidestand to keep the trapped oil contained in the left side of the engine;
less mess on the floor.

4.  Remove the R.H. engine cover. Notice that there are a couple cover
screws towards the front that have thread sealer on them. Make a mental
note to put these back from whence they came, or re-treat the threads with
some sealer. Using a plastic or rubber mallet, CAREFULLY tap around the
cover to break it free from the gasket.

5.  Remove the cap screws (6) holding the clutch springs and outer plate on
the end of the clutch hub. Pull off the outer cover plate.

You can now see the clutch hub nut and the star spring located underneath
it. BEFORE you remove any of the clutch plates, look at the orientation of
the tabs on the outer-most friction plate. They ARE NOT in the long slots
of the basket like all the others. This plate is rotated so its tabs are in
a separate set of shallow slots. Orient this last plate in the same manner
during reassembly.

Also pay attention to the orientation of the "cuts" in the friction
material. These cuts splay outward from the center, kinda like the clouds
you see in the satellite images of a hurricane with the eye rotating
counter-clockwise. These help to keep oil slung out of between the plates
to minimize clutch slippage. Reinstall them the same way.

If your spring has broken, remove the obvious larger bits, then use a
pencil magnet to probe around the inside of the R.H. engine case area AND
cover to collect as many of the smaller pieces as you can. Typically these
all remain in the basket assembly, but check around in the various cavities
anyway just to be sure. Also inspect all the friction and drive plates for
any damage and replace as necessary. Soak any new friction plates in oil
for several hours prior to installation.

6.  Remove the (36mm - a 1-3/8" will work) clutch hub nut.  This will be
somewhat difficult unless you have an impact wrench or a special hub
holder. At the risk of damaging the outer basket or the inner hub, please
don't try wedging something between the two to get the nut loose.

NOTE:   COG member, Steve Mosely, has indicated that he has successfully kept
the hub from turning when loosening (and tightening) the nut by putting the
transmission in 6th. gear and applying the rear brake.

The special tool that's available operates much like a set of Vise-Grips,
but whose jaws are extended and have a 90 degree bend in the ends. These
end pieces engage a couple of the splines that run the length of the inner
hub. With the tool's tension adjusted properly, the hub can be secured and
held with one hand, keeping it from turning during the loosening and
torquing process. These are available from Kawasaki and other aftermarket
outlets that sell tools for working on motorcycles.

Whichever method you use, loosen and remove the clutch hub nut and the star
spring. Discard the old nut.

7.  Install the star spring(s) and the NEW clutch hub nut. This is
especially important if you are installing the new tandem spring
arrangement. The nut's construction is a form of Stover nut whose end-most
section is intentionally distorted. This distortion exerts pressure on the
last few threads of the transmission input shaft to help lock it in place
and keep it from backing off.

If you're using the tool holder, torque the nut to its specified value
(98ft-lbs).

NOTE: The following methods are NOT approved or endorsed by big K.

a. If using an impact wrench, wrap the inner hub with a rag (to protect
your hand), grasp it firmly and drive the nut home until you get "that"
solid feel in the hub. Hit it one more time.

b. Alternately, use Steve Moseley's method by putting the transmission in
6th. gear to keep the hub from turning and torque the nut.

8.  Replace the steel and friction plates, orientating the last one the
same way it was prior to disassembly.

9.  Replace the end cover, springs, and cap screws (6). Torque to their
specified value (95in-lbs).

10. Clean off the old gasket from the engine and cover being careful not to
nick or gouge the mating surfaces.

11. Using Kawasaki Bond or a similar gasket sealer, apply a VERY thin layer
on the gasket surface of the cover (some people use a thin layer of
grease). This will hold the gasket in place during installation. Install
the gasket on the cover carefully aligning the bolt holes. Drop a couple of
bolts thru the gasket and cover to hold it in place as you get it situated.
Press it down so the sealer will take hold. Remove the bolts.

12. Put the cover in place and replace the screws, again paying attention
where the ones were that had the thread sealer. After making sure the
gasket is still in place and the cover is fully seated, snug up the screws,
then torque to their setting (approx. 35~40in-lbs).

13. Using a solvent such as BrakLeen, clean off as much oil as you can
around the mating gasket surfaces, then fill the engine with oil checking
for leaks as you go.

No leaks?? Replace the rest of the plastic and hit the road.

Thanks, Guy!
 
 
 
 
 
 

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